Realizing that I do not have much time left in India, I made arrangements to accompany a friend from work to the
state of Gujarat to visit our other friend who lives there. We were so excited about our journey together and from the beginning, it was indeed an adventure. A brief overview of some of the fiascos of traveling: While I was on the bus to get to the train station, a woman who was getting off the bus stepped on my pants (as I was halfway in the aisle since I was sharing a seat bench with 3 other people) and ripped my pants. I then had to run around Pune city with ripped shalwars in search of a new pair of pants before boarding the train. Once that crisis was averted, me and my friend bought some food and were getting excited for our train journey. We decided to wait and eat our meal on the train. As
we boarded the train, an overwhelming odor of urine hit me in the face. Our seats were right next to the bathroom! This definitely did not fit the picture of the train ride I had in mind. My first thought was that I was not going to be able to stand this for a 12 hour overnight train. After wallowing for about 2.2 seconds, I quickly got over it and within 5 minutes me and my friend were in hysterical bouts of laughter about all the comical situatio
ns we were encountering on the train; me having to change my ripped pants under a bed sheet, my hair getting caught in a ceiling fan, losing one of my shoes and finding it at the other end of the train, making ourselves a little haven on the top berth of the train etc. It’s amazing how a seemingly awful situation can turn into the most fun when you are in good company.
After a journey that went relatively smoothly, we arrived the next morning in Ahmadabad. The interesting and unique thing about India is that you can travel a very short distance and it is just like visiting another country as the language, food, clothing and culture all differs. As I stepped outside, the weather was hot and humid, even at 8:00 in the morning. I waited for my friend and I was surprised to see that she had come to pick me up in a car. I know this may not seem out of the ordinary but she was one of the first people I met in India who actually owne
d a vehicle. During my few days staying with her I saw that her life is really not that different from mine. She enjoys all of the same comforts as I do in the U.S. such as a car, washing machine, shower etc. Seeing her lifestyle made me realize that there are so many realities and different aspects of life in India. Although this is in fact true for everywhere, I think in India the differences between people’s lives is quite vast. I felt fortunate that I had the opportunity to see all sides. Most people, even Indians, are only exposed to one reality of India, which is their own. Seeing many different lifestyles has helped me to understand India’s complex nature in a more genuine way.
Although I obviously was aware of Gandhi and his role in the independence of India, my knowledge of
his life and philosophies was limited to studying his influence on Nelson Mandela the anti apartheid movement in South African fight and the movie chronicling his life that I watched en route to India. While in Gujarat, I visited one of the first ashram’s that he established in India and learned of his philosophies and the way he gently mobilized people towards empowerment and self-sufficiency. Through seeing his work and walking around the ashram I could feel the influence he has had on all the citizens of India from young to old. When I would meet elders on the street, I would see their faces light up when I would ask them about Gandhi. They would all recount and tell me about the time that Gandhi visited their village. I was amazed at the sheer number of people who had actually seen and interacted with Gandhi in person. It made me realize that Gandhi was truly a grassroots community organizer as he personally would go from one small village to another to empower and mobilize people. Many of the younger social workers that I would talk with would refer to Gandhian philosophies as what grounds and motivates their activism work. It was clear to me that the thread of Gandhi’s’ legacy runs deeply through the fabric of India.
state of Gujarat to visit our other friend who lives there. We were so excited about our journey together and from the beginning, it was indeed an adventure. A brief overview of some of the fiascos of traveling: While I was on the bus to get to the train station, a woman who was getting off the bus stepped on my pants (as I was halfway in the aisle since I was sharing a seat bench with 3 other people) and ripped my pants. I then had to run around Pune city with ripped shalwars in search of a new pair of pants before boarding the train. Once that crisis was averted, me and my friend bought some food and were getting excited for our train journey. We decided to wait and eat our meal on the train. As
we boarded the train, an overwhelming odor of urine hit me in the face. Our seats were right next to the bathroom! This definitely did not fit the picture of the train ride I had in mind. My first thought was that I was not going to be able to stand this for a 12 hour overnight train. After wallowing for about 2.2 seconds, I quickly got over it and within 5 minutes me and my friend were in hysterical bouts of laughter about all the comical situatio
ns we were encountering on the train; me having to change my ripped pants under a bed sheet, my hair getting caught in a ceiling fan, losing one of my shoes and finding it at the other end of the train, making ourselves a little haven on the top berth of the train etc. It’s amazing how a seemingly awful situation can turn into the most fun when you are in good company.After a journey that went relatively smoothly, we arrived the next morning in Ahmadabad. The interesting and unique thing about India is that you can travel a very short distance and it is just like visiting another country as the language, food, clothing and culture all differs. As I stepped outside, the weather was hot and humid, even at 8:00 in the morning. I waited for my friend and I was surprised to see that she had come to pick me up in a car. I know this may not seem out of the ordinary but she was one of the first people I met in India who actually owne
d a vehicle. During my few days staying with her I saw that her life is really not that different from mine. She enjoys all of the same comforts as I do in the U.S. such as a car, washing machine, shower etc. Seeing her lifestyle made me realize that there are so many realities and different aspects of life in India. Although this is in fact true for everywhere, I think in India the differences between people’s lives is quite vast. I felt fortunate that I had the opportunity to see all sides. Most people, even Indians, are only exposed to one reality of India, which is their own. Seeing many different lifestyles has helped me to understand India’s complex nature in a more genuine way.Although to be honest, most of my time in Ahmadabad was spent either shopping or e
ating, I also gained insight into some of the social issues here. In Gujarat, there is a great deal of both religious and caste tension particularly when compared with Maharashtra. Ahmadabad has historically been the site of civil unrest between groups as well as riots and protests. The present level of conflict, particularly between Hindus and Muslims, remains high and these two groups are completely segregated. Although some of this tension is politically based on the conflicts between Pakistan and India, it is also much deeper rooted than this (similar to Israel and Pal
estine). As we were driving through the city, my friend explained to me that the left side of the road contains the Muslim ghettos in which many Muslims were displaced to after severe riots several years ago while the right side is Hindu slums; even from a simple glance it was apparent that the Muslim ghetto had significantly worse living conditions. This instantly reminded me of South Africa where black and colored townships are segregated and separated by a highway. As I pushed to learn more about this dynamic, my friend explained that the discrimination against Muslims is so extreme that even a very
wealthy Muslim would be denied buying a home in a Hindu neighborhood. Hearing this, I realized that this is a critical way in which institutionalized oppression operates; systematically blocking access to a much needed resource such as housing, education and employment therefore disenfranchising a group and keeping them inferior.
ating, I also gained insight into some of the social issues here. In Gujarat, there is a great deal of both religious and caste tension particularly when compared with Maharashtra. Ahmadabad has historically been the site of civil unrest between groups as well as riots and protests. The present level of conflict, particularly between Hindus and Muslims, remains high and these two groups are completely segregated. Although some of this tension is politically based on the conflicts between Pakistan and India, it is also much deeper rooted than this (similar to Israel and Pal
estine). As we were driving through the city, my friend explained to me that the left side of the road contains the Muslim ghettos in which many Muslims were displaced to after severe riots several years ago while the right side is Hindu slums; even from a simple glance it was apparent that the Muslim ghetto had significantly worse living conditions. This instantly reminded me of South Africa where black and colored townships are segregated and separated by a highway. As I pushed to learn more about this dynamic, my friend explained that the discrimination against Muslims is so extreme that even a very
wealthy Muslim would be denied buying a home in a Hindu neighborhood. Hearing this, I realized that this is a critical way in which institutionalized oppression operates; systematically blocking access to a much needed resource such as housing, education and employment therefore disenfranchising a group and keeping them inferior.Discrimination in India is not only based on religion but within the Hindu religion, caste serves as the basis of oppressive circumstances. The Hindu caste system was codified around A.D. 200 and initially served to set guidelines for marriage in order to ensure that the gene pool does not overlap-in other words a methodology to make sure their creed does not die o
ff due to incest and intermarriage. There are four major castes (Brahmins, priestly and learned people, Kshatriyas, warriors and the rulers, Vyabaris, the mercantile classes and Shudras, landless laborers) and then hundreds of subcastes within those castes. Needless to say, it is quite a complex and hard to understand system. Caste also served another purpose which was to set the foundation for organizing society as far as occupation. Each caste has a particular trade attached to it such as farmers, merchants, shoe shiners and historically have been forced into these same careers-choice within the caste system is a foreign concept; everything is based on karma and lineage. Individuals are born into caste and no increase in income or financial status can evoke caste mobility. Within the caste system Brahmins, the highest members of the caste ladder, have been exclusively allowed access to education and performing religious ceremonies while this is denied to others. On the other end of the hierarchy, untouchables or dalits (one in six Indians are dalits meaning crushed or stepped on) were not ev
en considered within the caste system and were/are viewed and treated as in human were banned from worship in temples. In fact, their shadows were not even allowed to fall on the shadows of upper caste individuals. Untouchable’s jobs were restricted to cleaning bathrooms and cremating bodies signifying that they are only worthy of encountering dead bodies and human waste. The legacy of this is seen in a variety of ways. Although many upper caste people, including a few of my friends, have hired help, it is not as simple as having a housekeeper. All the duties are divided. For example, the person who is hired to cook food, sees herself as higher on the caste hierarchy and will not wash dishes or clean. Then a different person is hired to clean the floors and kitchen but refuses to clean the bathroom, seeing this as an indicator of the lowest caste. When I first learned of this I was amused and just attributed it to one of the many ways in which Indian systems are inefficient. After I thought more about this I realized that it is much more deep rooted than this and all of these people are attempting to preserve whatever dignity they have left by asserting themselves as superior to someone else.
ff due to incest and intermarriage. There are four major castes (Brahmins, priestly and learned people, Kshatriyas, warriors and the rulers, Vyabaris, the mercantile classes and Shudras, landless laborers) and then hundreds of subcastes within those castes. Needless to say, it is quite a complex and hard to understand system. Caste also served another purpose which was to set the foundation for organizing society as far as occupation. Each caste has a particular trade attached to it such as farmers, merchants, shoe shiners and historically have been forced into these same careers-choice within the caste system is a foreign concept; everything is based on karma and lineage. Individuals are born into caste and no increase in income or financial status can evoke caste mobility. Within the caste system Brahmins, the highest members of the caste ladder, have been exclusively allowed access to education and performing religious ceremonies while this is denied to others. On the other end of the hierarchy, untouchables or dalits (one in six Indians are dalits meaning crushed or stepped on) were not ev
en considered within the caste system and were/are viewed and treated as in human were banned from worship in temples. In fact, their shadows were not even allowed to fall on the shadows of upper caste individuals. Untouchable’s jobs were restricted to cleaning bathrooms and cremating bodies signifying that they are only worthy of encountering dead bodies and human waste. The legacy of this is seen in a variety of ways. Although many upper caste people, including a few of my friends, have hired help, it is not as simple as having a housekeeper. All the duties are divided. For example, the person who is hired to cook food, sees herself as higher on the caste hierarchy and will not wash dishes or clean. Then a different person is hired to clean the floors and kitchen but refuses to clean the bathroom, seeing this as an indicator of the lowest caste. When I first learned of this I was amused and just attributed it to one of the many ways in which Indian systems are inefficient. After I thought more about this I realized that it is much more deep rooted than this and all of these people are attempting to preserve whatever dignity they have left by asserting themselves as superior to someone else.Although caste discrimination is officially outlawed in India, it remains the major force that socie
ty operates by. After only a few weeks in India, the way in which caste dictates people’s existence and opportunities is undeniably apparent. Although there are many government sponsored programs aimed at giving those of a lower caste opportunities (similar to affirmative action) lower castes continue to live in extreme poverty and experience horrible discrimination. To this day, many of my friends told me that their parents won’t allow dalit’s to use their bathrooms or drink out of the same cups they drink from. Again, in regards to housing, my friend was telling me that they are in the process of selling their house and since their neighbors are Dalits, people have openly refused to buy their home to avoid living in close proximity to someone of a low caste.
ty operates by. After only a few weeks in India, the way in which caste dictates people’s existence and opportunities is undeniably apparent. Although there are many government sponsored programs aimed at giving those of a lower caste opportunities (similar to affirmative action) lower castes continue to live in extreme poverty and experience horrible discrimination. To this day, many of my friends told me that their parents won’t allow dalit’s to use their bathrooms or drink out of the same cups they drink from. Again, in regards to housing, my friend was telling me that they are in the process of selling their house and since their neighbors are Dalits, people have openly refused to buy their home to avoid living in close proximity to someone of a low caste.Taking all of this in, I started to wonder is oppression and hierarchy simply a part of human nature or is it a byproduct of a capitalist society? If the former is true, then are we just spinning our wheels wit
h the pursuit of social justice and equality? If one form of oppression will just be replaced by another what are we trying to achieve (if it’s not race it’s religion if not religion caste etc.)? While struggling with these questions, I learned about the role that Gandhi played in defying discrimination of both religion and caste. Gujarat is Gandhi’s home state and the base in which he lead much of the struggle towards India’s independence. In fact, the train we rode was called Ahimsa Express-Ahimsa meaning nonviolence, a term that Gandhi coined. Gandhi adamantly defied both caste and religious discrimination. In his ashram, he made it compulsory for all people living there to participate in all areas of life from gaining education to cleaning toilets. He renamed untouchables as Harijans meaning children of god. Although this term is now again being abused to have a derogatory meaning, it was meant to give those of lower caste status some dignity and respect and reintegrate them into society. He built a school on the ashram specifically for the education of Harijans and gave them an opportunity to gain job training in areas other than cleaning and cremation.
h the pursuit of social justice and equality? If one form of oppression will just be replaced by another what are we trying to achieve (if it’s not race it’s religion if not religion caste etc.)? While struggling with these questions, I learned about the role that Gandhi played in defying discrimination of both religion and caste. Gujarat is Gandhi’s home state and the base in which he lead much of the struggle towards India’s independence. In fact, the train we rode was called Ahimsa Express-Ahimsa meaning nonviolence, a term that Gandhi coined. Gandhi adamantly defied both caste and religious discrimination. In his ashram, he made it compulsory for all people living there to participate in all areas of life from gaining education to cleaning toilets. He renamed untouchables as Harijans meaning children of god. Although this term is now again being abused to have a derogatory meaning, it was meant to give those of lower caste status some dignity and respect and reintegrate them into society. He built a school on the ashram specifically for the education of Harijans and gave them an opportunity to gain job training in areas other than cleaning and cremation.Although I obviously was aware of Gandhi and his role in the independence of India, my knowledge of
his life and philosophies was limited to studying his influence on Nelson Mandela the anti apartheid movement in South African fight and the movie chronicling his life that I watched en route to India. While in Gujarat, I visited one of the first ashram’s that he established in India and learned of his philosophies and the way he gently mobilized people towards empowerment and self-sufficiency. Through seeing his work and walking around the ashram I could feel the influence he has had on all the citizens of India from young to old. When I would meet elders on the street, I would see their faces light up when I would ask them about Gandhi. They would all recount and tell me about the time that Gandhi visited their village. I was amazed at the sheer number of people who had actually seen and interacted with Gandhi in person. It made me realize that Gandhi was truly a grassroots community organizer as he personally would go from one small village to another to empower and mobilize people. Many of the younger social workers that I would talk with would refer to Gandhian philosophies as what grounds and motivates their activism work. It was clear to me that the thread of Gandhi’s’ legacy runs deeply through the fabric of India. As we went to leave Gujarat, we found out that our bus which we had prepaid tickets for was cancelled (only in India). We scrambled around for a few hours and I again witnessed a very unique thing about India: organization amidst utter chaos. With the help and advocacy skills of our friends, we finally made alternate plans to get back home. I sat on the bus
looking out the window as we drove through Gujarat and eventually into Maharashtra thought about the history of India and the fight for justice while drawing parallels to the U.S. The reoccuring questions about equality and social justice consumed me: Is oppression an indisputable part of human nature or is it a result of a particular economic system? Although I never found the answer, I decided that the only thing I am certain of is that regardless of the reasons, giving up on the fight for equality is not an option…at least not for me.
looking out the window as we drove through Gujarat and eventually into Maharashtra thought about the history of India and the fight for justice while drawing parallels to the U.S. The reoccuring questions about equality and social justice consumed me: Is oppression an indisputable part of human nature or is it a result of a particular economic system? Although I never found the answer, I decided that the only thing I am certain of is that regardless of the reasons, giving up on the fight for equality is not an option…at least not for me.
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